Over the past two decades, tobacco use in many countries has slipped from a common social habit to a largely condemned activity. Public-health programmes such as the “Smoking not our future” drive taught young people that refusing a cigarette was the new definition of cool. Yet, recent visual culture – from high-end fashion runways to Instagram snapshots – is re-introducing the cigarette as a symbol of rebellion, sophistication and nostalgia.
Research carried out by Bhamini Khandige on 4 September 2026 catalogues a series of high-profile examples: a March 2025 Instagram post by pop star Dua Lipa shows her holding a cigarette in front of a bright “No Smoking” sign, while Charli XCX, various music videos and runway shows display similar motifs. The researcher’s source table notes that no direct tobacco-company sponsorship was identified for the Dua Lipa image, underscoring that a celebrity smoking photo is not automatically an advertisement. Nevertheless, the visual impact is undeniable, and the images circulate widely across platforms that shape youth perception.
From denormalisation to a new visual trend
In the late 1990s, roughly a quarter of New Zealand’s population smoked daily, and tobacco advertising was still visible in stores and on billboards. Over the following decades, a combination of strict advertising bans, graphic pack warnings, and relentless denormalisation campaigns eroded the glamorous aura once cultivated by the tobacco industry. By the early 2020s, smoking prevalence among young people in Aotearoa New Zealand fell to historic lows, and the classic “powerwalls” of scented cigarette packs disappeared from retail shelves.
However, the generation that grew up with those anti-smoking messages has not lived through the era when smoking was socially accepted. With no vivid recollection of the shift from “cool” to “uncool,” many youths encounter cigarettes primarily through social media content that frames them as fashionable accessories. The renormalisation of smoking – the process of restoring its cultural acceptability – is being fed by algorithmic amplification of images that associate tobacco with glamour and self-confidence.
Celebrities, music videos and runway moments that spark a revival
Beyond Dua Lipa, other high-visibility figures have contributed to the resurgence. Lorde was captured smoking onstage during a concert, while Taika Waititi’s 50th-birthday celebration featured trays of cigarettes, a stark contrast to his earlier involvement in anti-smoking advocacy. Influencers who identify as “cigfluencers” curate Instagram feeds filled with nostalgic, monochrome shots of ashtrays and flickering butts, often without disclosing any commercial ties to tobacco firms. These posts thrive in an environment where traditional smoking bans no longer control the visual narrative.
Fashion houses have also revisited the motif. Runway shows for luxury brands have incorporated cigarette-styled props, and editorial spreads routinely pair couture gowns with models holding smoldering sticks. The combination of high-fashion aesthetics and the rebellious undertones of smoking creates a potent allure for followers who associate style with non-conformity.
What the data say and how public health can respond
Statistical monitoring in New Zealand shows that daily and monthly smoking rates among 15- to 24-year-olds have not risen, yet the rise of “social” smoking – occasional use in group settings – remains a warning sign. Research indicates that social smoking often precedes a transition to regular use, especially when reinforced by glamorous media portrayals.
To counteract this subtle push, experts argue for a new wave of youth-oriented campaigns that expose the tactics of the tobacco industry in the digital age. Initiatives modeled after the U.S. Truth Initiative, which highlight how celebrities become “unpaid tobacco company spokespeople,” could help restore critical awareness. Additionally, tightening regulations around influencer marketing, mandating clear disclosures, and adjusting on-pack warnings to resonate with contemporary concerns (such as the impact of second-hand smoke on friends) are suggested strategies.
Continuous surveillance of smoking experimentation, especially on platforms where visual content spreads rapidly, is essential. By coupling real-time data with proactive communication, public-health bodies can aim to keep the hard-won denormalisation gains from slipping back into the background of a culture hungry for edgy aesthetics.
