When a royal woman steps onto a balcony, a crowd, or a diplomatic meeting, every stitch, hue, and accessory is scrutinised. Sir Norman Hartnell, the famed couturier behind many of Queen Elizabeth II’s most memorable gowns, coined the term “dress diplomacy” in his 1955 memoir Silver and Gold. He noticed that a well-chosen piece of jewellery could convey allegiance, solidarity or a subtle political cue as clearly as any speech. From a chartreuse dress meant to flash amid a sea of hats to Princess Anne re-wearing a 42-year-old gown, the language of fashion has long been a royal-house tool.
The brooch as a diplomatic instrument
Among the wardrobe’s silent messengers, the brooch holds a special rank. Its modest size belies the strategic weight it can carry. Joanna Hardy, a fine-jewellery authority who appears regularly on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow, observes, “I think the late queen, she knew more about her jewelry collection than anyone else.” Hardy adds that the monarch “never, ever wore jewelry without there being a significant reason, from a political point of view.” Whether it was a maple-leaf diamond pin in Canada or a Cartier Union Jack piece during a Maryland arrival, each selection was anything but accidental.
The mysterious Jardine Star Brooch
Perhaps the most enigmatic of these diplomatic ornaments is the Jardine Star Brooch. Leslie Field, author of *The Queen’s Jewels*, notes that a late-Victorian sunburst of diamonds—presumed to be this very brooch—reached the Queen in 1981 as a bequest from a figure known only as Lady Jardine. Press speculation has lingered for decades, but the artifact’s lineage is clearer within the Jardine clan itself.
Lady Gemma Jardine, married to Sir William Jardine, 13th baronet and 24th chief of Clan Jardine, tells VF that “as long as I can remember, my family have talked about the Jardine Star Brooch.” She believes the piece may once have belonged to Lady Eda Jardine of Applegarth, a Scottish aristocrat described as “something of a lively character and quite a woman in her day.” Eda, born into the Younger brewing dynasty, was an adventurous sportswoman and race-car driver who claimed the Monte Carlo Ladies Cup in 1931 behind the wheel of a Lancia Lambda. The same family notes that the Jardine clan has a motto, “Beware, I am present,” and a self-portrait of members as “fighters, writers, adventurers, emigrants, lawyers, rogues, sportsmen, and strong women.”
From a possible tiara to a royal brooch
Hardy suggests the starburst may have originated as part of a tiara before being dismantled, a practice not uncommon in aristocratic families: “A lot were later broken up and made into brooches, because then they were distributed throughout the family.” The exact moment the piece entered the royal wardrobe remains elusive; even the Jardines admit, “it took until 1981 to get to her…remains a mystery.” Yet the queen’s public appearances quickly turned the star into a recognizable diplomatic sign.
Royal moments that highlighted the brooch
The Gardine Star first entered the public eye when Queen Elizabeth II wore it during the 2006 festivities captured by Getty Images. The piece resurfaced for the 2012 Diamond Jubilee weekend and later at the 2021 meeting with President Joe Biden at Windsor Castle, underscoring the monarch’s nuanced nod to the United States. Queen Camilla has continued the tradition, displaying the star at Royal Ascot in both 2024 and 2025, and most recently at the Founder’s Day ceremony at the Royal Hospital Chelsea in London this June where she paired it with an Anna Valentine dress.
Each appearance illustrates Hardy’s point that a brooch “will always fit you” serving both aesthetic and political purposes. By choosing a historic, diamond-rich star, the royal women signal continuity, respect for heritage, and a subtle alignment with the families whose names are woven into the piece.
Why the family cherishes the royal connection
For the Jardines, the brooch’s presence on a throne room balcony is more than a flash of light; it secures the clan’s name in the annals of British royalty. Lady Gemma reflects, “It is very special to see Queen Camilla wearing [the brooch] now…knowing that a piece of jewelry that has such a personal connection to our family has become part of the royal family’s story too.” The earlier generosity of Lady Eda—who, after dying childless in 1960 at age 93, founded the Lady Eda Jardine Trust supporting arts, conservation and community welfare—adds a philanthropic layer to the narrative. A disgruntled nephew once hoped to inherit the funds, but the trust endures, and the brooch endures as a symbol of that legacy.
Modern attitudes toward royal jewellery
While Queen Camilla’s brooches dominate headlines—over 60 articles in the past year alone—hard-won opinions suggest a shift in public taste. Hardy notes that many still view brooches as “fuddy-duddy” yet she counters, “A brooch has never gone out of fashion.” She contrasts Camilla’s penchant for elaborate pieces with Catherine, Princess of Wales, who prefers a simpler aesthetic and dips less frequently into the historic royal collection. In an era where “royals walking out bedecked, you know, looking like a Christmas tree, is probably not appropriate anymore” the starburst remains a “happy jewel” that balances visibility with restraint.
Other jewels, such as the Cartier Williamson pink-diamond brooch given to the late queen on her wedding day, also illustrate how personal gifts become public symbols. Yet the Jardine Star continues to dominate discussions of “dress diplomacy” because it blends Victorian craftsmanship, clan heritage, and a clear political intent—making it a timeless piece of the royal wardrobe.
