Ever noticed tiny white bumps on your face that resemble pimples but aren’t? These could be milia, a common but often misunderstood skin concern. Unlike acne, milia are not inflammatory and are usually harmless. However, they can be bothersome and may leave you wondering how to address them. Let’s delve into the world of milia, exploring their causes, treatments, and expert advice from dermatologist Aegean Chan, MD, of the California Dermatology Group.
Milia are small, firm cysts that form beneath the surface of the skin. They are filled with keratin, a protein that helps form the structure of the skin, hair, and nails. These tiny bumps are most commonly found on the face, particularly around the cheeks, eyelids, eyes, and forehead. Unlike clogged pores, milia have no opening to the surface, making them more challenging to treat.
What causes milia?
Milia can develop for various reasons, and pinpointing the exact cause can be difficult. Dermatologist Aegean Chan, MD, explains that milia can appear after skin damage from sun exposure, abrasions, or laser treatments. Smoking can also contribute to their development due to collagen damage. People of all ages can experience milia, including babies and children, who often outgrow them. However, Dr. Chan notes that milia are frequently seen in older adults, particularly those above the age of 60.
Your skincare routine might also play a role in milia formation. Dr. Chan advises that very occlusive products, such as heavy moisturizers, can contribute to milia by trapping keratin beneath the skin’s surface.
Do milia go away on their own?
The resolution of milia depends on various factors. Dr. Chan explains that milia in babies and children typically disappear on their own. In adults, very small milia may also resolve without treatment. Exfoliating products containing retinols or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) can help improve milia over time by promoting cellular turnover. However, if milia persist, it’s best to consult a dermatologist for professional extraction.
It’s crucial to avoid attempting to pop milia at home. Dr. Chan warns that squeezing or manipulating milia can cause trauma and potentially lead to scarring that is more noticeable than the milia itself. Always seek professional help for safe and effective treatment.
How to treat milia
The best approach to treating milia depends on their severity and duration. For smaller milia, Dr. Chan recommends incorporating a retinoid such as the Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment, or an exfoliating toner with salicylic acid like the Pixi Clarity Tonic, into your skincare routine. These products can help flatten milia by encouraging cellular turnover.
For deep, persistent milia, a visit to your dermatologist is the best course of action. Dr. Chan explains that because milia sit beneath the skin’s surface and lack an opening, they usually cannot be squeezed out. Instead, a dermatologist will use a small sterile needle or blade to create an opening and then use an extractor to remove the cyst. When performed properly, the area typically heals nicely.
The key takeaway is that milia are different from acne and should not be popped. These benign cysts often resolve on their own with the help of mild exfoliants. However, if they persist, consulting a dermatologist for safe extraction is the best approach. Always prioritize your skin’s health and seek professional advice when needed.
