For decades the makeup world has treated black, brown or navy eyeliner as staples, while the idea of a red liner felt more like a Halloween stunt. The perception shifted when Hollywood lore revealed that Marilyn Monroe’s artist would place a tiny red dot at the inner corner to brighten the whites. Today, the colour is resurfacing in a sophisticated form, thanks to stars such as Zendaya and Rihanna who experiment with burgundy smudges or cherry-red cat-eyes. As makeup artist Christian Briceno explains, “I think red liner is part of a bigger interest in wearing bright colors in small doses,” highlighting the trend’s move toward moody, vampy aesthetics.
Applying red eyeliner without looking over-done
Pro makeup artist Tim Quinn reminds us that a dramatic wing isn’t mandatory; a thin swipe can make a powerful impact. Rihanna, for example, chose a single cherry-red line along her lower waterline at the Matières Fécales SS27 show, proving that restraint can be striking. Petra Fagerstrom’s London runway also showcased models with a solitary red flick against bare skin, reinforcing the power of minimalism. Briceno adds, “What I liked about Rihanna’s makeup was how little red you actually saw,” and notes that neutral lids and black lashes let the red become the focal point.
For those who prefer a softer effect, smudging works beautifully. During a July Spider-Man photocall, Zendaya wore bright red liner blended across the entire eye, creating a hazy, adventurous look. Later, in August, Maisie Williams opted for a wine-coloured wash at the Practical Magic 2 premiere, showing that a diffused hue can feel both romantic and edgy. Briceno observes, “A red that looks intense in a big swatch can be quite subtle along the lashes,” and suggests pressing a burgundy liner near the outer lash line before softening the edge with a small brush until it resembles a shadow.
If the mood calls for a statement wing, red can feel playfully daring. Briceno notes, “You can draw the same wing you’d normally wear in black, and in red, it feels more playful.” Sophie Thatcher proved this at the Louis Vuitton SS27 show, where a brick-red cat-eye added an unexpected pop to a romantic glam look. At Standing Ground’s couture presentation in Paris, models paired sharp cherry-red wings with lilac shadows, delivering a surprisingly romantic contrast. Dove Cameron’s recent “Do The Math” video pushes the concept further with graphic black-and-red floating lines and sharp inner corners, illustrating the red liner’s versatility across aesthetic spectrums. Quinn advises keeping the colour on the upper lash line and using a touch of concealer at the inner corners to avoid a tired appearance.
Finding the shade that suits you
Choosing the right red begins with understanding your base colours. If you’re accustomed to brown pencils, a deep burgundy offers a seamless transition; Quinn says it’s “unexpected but sophisticated” and works especially well with green or hazel eyes. For a punchier statement, cherry red delivers an intense, almost emo vibe – Briceno insists, “If you want the red to show even in a fine line, I’d go with cherry,” noting that brown eyes can handle the boldness without overwhelming the face. Brick red, slightly warmer than cherry, flatters blue eyes and provides a earthier feel, while berry tones with muted, purplish undertones suit rosy complexions by keeping the focus on the eyes rather than highlighting skin redness.
Ultimately, experimentation trumps perfection. Quinn reminds readers that the most flattering combination is often unexpected, and that red eyeliner, once deemed risky, now fits comfortably into everyday makeup routines. By layering a brown pencil at the lash roots before adding red on top, the colour gains definition and intentionality, while a coat of black mascara ensures the lashes remain the anchor of the look. Whether you opt for a whisper of burgundy or a bold cherry swoop, the key is to treat red as a flexible tool rather than a fleeting fad.
