Paris-based label Coperni confirmed on Instagram that it will cease operations after eight seasons of blending couture with cutting-edge technology. Co-founders and creative directors Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer attributed the decision to an unresolved, year-long disagreement with their principal shareholder and exclusive distributor, Tomorrow Ltd.. The dispute, centred on unpaid sums and a breakdown of trust, culminated in a court-ordered receivership that left the brand without the financial footing needed to continue.
The closure marks the end of a venture that repeatedly challenged conventional runway formats, earned early accolades, and generated moments that dominated social feeds. While the brand’s future remains uncertain, its eight-year imprint on contemporary fashion will linger in the industry’s collective memory.
From Mod’Art classrooms to a label named for a revolutionary astronomer
Vaillant and Meyer first crossed paths at Mod’Art International, where a shared fascination with technology and minimalism sparked the idea of a new label. In 2013 they launched Coperni Femme, borrowing the name of astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus to echo the spirit of overturning entrenched perspectives. Their debut earned the ANDAM Creative Label Prize in 2014 and a finalist spot for the LVMH Prize the following year, positioning the brand as an emerging force.
In 2015 the duo accepted the role of artistic directors at historic house Courrèges, pausing Coperni to focus on the revival. After two seasons they returned, relaunching Coperni in 2018 with a renewed emphasis on clean silhouettes, architectural construction, and a pronounced love for technological partnerships. Meyer openly admitted that companies like Apple often inspired more than traditional fashion houses, a mindset that manifested in the iconic Swipe Bag—an accessory mimicking the iPhone’s slide-to-unlock gesture. The bag evolved through vegan apple leather, transparent glass, solid gold, and even a piece fashioned from a 55,000-year-old lunar meteorite, illustrating the label’s commitment to material experimentation.
Show-stopping experiments that went viral
The spring/summer 2023 runway in Paris featured a performance that would become instantly memorable: model Bella Hadid stepped onto the catwalk in a sheer thong before a crew sprayed a white, cobweb-like coating that solidified into a full dress before her eyes. Collaborating with Spanish materials-science startup Fabrican, the designers recreated the magic of Alexander McQueen’s 1999 robot-painted show for a new generation. A year later, robot dogs trailed down the runway, snatching garments from models in a choreographed display that questioned the evolving relationship between humanity and artificial intelligence.
Coperni’s flair for spectacle reached a pop-culture apex in the spring/summer 2025 collection staged at Disneyland Paris. The partnership produced a line of Disney-themed pieces, including a Swipe Bag adorned with Mickey Mouse ears, and saw Kylie Jenner walk the runway in a princess-inspired gown. These moments, while visually striking, also reinforced the label’s mantra: fashion should be a living laboratory where technology, narrative and celebrity intersect.
The financial deadlock and the final shutdown
Behind the glitter, a protracted conflict with Tomorrow Ltd. began to erode Coperni’s stability. Since 2019 the distributor held a majority stake and exclusive rights to the brand’s international sales. By early 2026, the partnership had deteriorated to the point where the label could not meet its obligations to partners and suppliers, prompting the founders to withdraw from Paris Fashion Week in March.
In June, a Paris commercial court granted Coperni protective status, placing it into receivership to preserve jobs and allow time for a potential buy-back. During that month, Tomorrow Ltd. was sold to Progetto 11, the holding company behind the e-commerce platform The Level Group. Despite Vaillant and Meyer’s attempt to regain control, negotiations stalled, and the brand’s assets remained encumbered. The final Instagram announcement expressed “profound sadness” and gratitude to the community, ending with a hopeful “See you soon,” hinting that the creators may re-emerge in a different form.
Coperni’s disappearance removes a bold, technology-infused voice from the fashion conversation. Yet its legacy—marked by daring runway moments, material innovation, and a willingness to blur the line between apparel and experiment—continues to inspire designers who seek to push the boundaries of what clothing can become.
