Fashion criticism has undergone a significant transformation over the decades. What once was a field marked by blunt assessments and unapologetic honesty has evolved into a more diplomatic and nuanced discourse. This shift raises important questions about the role of criticism in shaping Fashion trends and public perception.
The recent publication of Vanity Fair’s 2026 Best Dressed Lists brought to light the absence of its counterpart: the worst dressed list. This omission sparked a reflection on the changing nature of fashion criticism. The process of compiling the best dressed list was collaborative and largely cordial, with the exception of a few contentious decisions that will likely be debated for years to come.
The Golden Age of Fashion Criticism
The mid-20th century saw the rise of fashion critics like Richard Sylvester Selzer, better known as Mr. Blackwell. Born in Brooklyn in 1922, Blackwell launched his annual list of the 10 worst dressed women in 1960. His critiques were infamous for their viciousness and creativity, often labeling his victims as “couture casualties.” Blackwell’s pronouncements were widely disseminated, making his lists a cultural phenomenon.
Following Blackwell, Joan Rivers emerged as a prominent figure in fashion criticism. In the 1990s, her “Who are you wearing?” became a staple of red carpet coverage. Rivers’ approach was outrageous, occasionally offensive, and frequently merciless, but it was also very funny. Her critiques helped popularize the role of celebrity stylists, creating a new dynamic in fashion criticism.
The Rise of the Celebrity Stylist
The emergence of celebrity stylists added a layer of complexity to fashion criticism. Stylists like Law Roach, known for his work with Zendaya, have become influential figures in the industry. Roach’s blunt commentary on shows like RuPaul’s Drag Race, HBO’s Legendary, and Project Runway highlights the delicate balance between criticism and professional courtesy.
Roach’s reluctance to participate in worst dressed lists underscores the challenges of modern fashion criticism. He argues that criticizing an outfit also reflects on the stylist who created it, emphasizing the need for honor among professionals. This perspective highlights the interconnected nature of the fashion industry, where criticism can have far-reaching implications.
The Internet Era: Democratization and Polarization
The internet has democratized fashion criticism, allowing anyone with a strong Wi-Fi connection to become an armchair critic. Platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and X have become hubs for instant dissection of red carpet looks and celebrity fashion choices. This democratization has led to the formation of online communities built around shared dislike, fostering a culture of outrage and polarization.
However, the internet’s democratization of fashion criticism has not been accompanied by a democratization of expertise. Roach emphasizes the importance of curated criticism from individuals with industry insight and credibility. He believes that unpopular opinions should come from knowledgeable sources to maintain the integrity of fashion criticism.
The shift from traditional media to internet-driven discourse has also raised questions about the role of criticism in fashion. If everything is deemed fabulous, does anything truly stand out? The absence of worst dressed lists and the prevalence of participation trophies in fashion media suggest a need for a more balanced approach to criticism.
From the unapologetic honesty of Mr. Blackwell to the nuanced approach of modern critics, the field has undergone significant transformation. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, so too will the role of criticism in shaping its future.
