The excitement that normally surrounds a Milan fashion week runway was split on Wednesday. While fans clamored for stars such as Monica Bellucci, Rachel Zegler and Bang Chan of Stray Kids to appear in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi ready-to-wear show, a very different chorus rose from the opposite side of Via Solari. A modest police presence watched dozens of demonstrators hand out bright-yellow leaflets, each bearing a caged raccoon illustration and a QR code that led to an online registration for an anti-fur march scheduled for Saturday.
Why the protest matters: the demand for a fur ban
Organised by the Coalition to Abolish the Fur Trade (CAFT) and the Animal Defense League Italia, the rally aims to force the organisers of Milan Fashion Week to follow the example set by New York and London, which have already eliminated real fur from their catwalks. The activists delivered a letter to Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana, explicitly naming Fendi as the brand blocking a comprehensive ban. Their pamphlets promised a march that could draw more than 500 participants, based on the online sign-ups.
The runway’s reflective enclosure and its real purpose
Chiuri’s catwalk was surrounded by a mirrored glass structure that many spectators assumed was a security measure to keep protestors at bay. In fact, the design paid homage to Luciano Fabro’s 1970s installation *Cubo di Specchi*, an artwork intended to force viewers to confront their own reflection while engaging with the performance inside. This artistic choice inadvertently highlighted the clash between fashion’s self-examination and the external ethical scrutiny brought by the demonstrators.
From New York to Milan: a growing industry shift
Earlier this month, PETA activists disrupted shows by Cos in New York and H&M in London, underscoring a broader trend. In 2022, the Kering luxury group announced a fur-free policy, and in Condé Nast – the parent company of Vogue, Vanity Fair and other titles – officially banned new animal fur from all editorial content and advertising after a persistent nine-month campaign led by CAFT and PETA. The current march, which began at Piazza Cordusio near the Duomo and stretched to Porta Venezia, passed by one of Fendi’s flagship stores, reminding onlookers that fashion week is not an insulated spectacle but a public event that affects city life.
Voices on the ground
“It’s specifically Fendi,” declared an American volunteer who had flown in from Nebraska, emphasizing the brand’s role as the final obstacle. Another participant, a woman with an Italian accent, explained that the protest’s aim was to make Milan the next fashion capital to go fur-free, noting the pressure already mounting from consumers and fellow designers. A former Vogue employee, now covering the march, recounted the earlier campaign that targeted Vogue’s senior editors, ultimately contributing to the industry-wide fur ban.
While the demonstration remained peaceful, the presence of masked activists bearing Capasa’s likeness underscored the personal nature of the demand. The event demonstrated that even amid the glamour of celebrity arrivals and glittering outfits, the fashion world is increasingly forced to reckon with animal welfare concerns and the growing market for synthetic alternatives.
